| Day
one - Into the forest
An early start to
this tour (0630h). The clients and expedition
leader enjoy a hearty breakfast at the
Hotel Waupés in São Gabriel
da Cachoeira before loading all the equipment
into the canoe fitted with a 40hp outboard
motor, that is waiting for us on the sandy
beach on the Rio Negro. When all the kit
is accounted for, we set off at 0800h.
Even at this hour the sun is beating down
on Amazônia, creating a beautiful
setting in which to begin the expedition.
After 15 minutes we reach the quaint port
of Camanaus where the guides stop the
canoe in order to load fuel drums and
pick up some fresh bananas while Peter,
Tristan and the clients visit one of the
ships that has recently arrived from Manaus.
This three-day trip departs every Friday,
and provides an alternative to the Rico
flight that we arrived on a few days previously.
Back on board and
we continue downstream on the Rio Negro
- fresh, very small but sweet bananas
fuelling our bodies. One can feel the
sense of anticipation and excitement about
the impending trip as we continue to Sitio
Jeremias (Jeremias' smallholding on the
river) where we literally get our first
taste of what is in store! Here we sample
some of the delicious jungle fruits that
can be found in the area for example:
fresh coconut water, Cayenne lime (which
tastes like a gooseberry) and Guava. It
is here that our guides pick up some extra
hammocks for the clients and essential
tools in case of emergencies with the
outboard motor on the canoe.
After 45 minutes,
everyone re-boards the canoe and we continue
to the mouth of the Rio Curicuriari. We
moor the boat at a tukano Indian village,
as we have to impart sad news that the
chief's son had died in the city. Despite
the morbid nature of our visit, the locals
(especially the children) are intrigued
and pleased by our visit that provides
excellent photographic opportunities of
Peter with the local children. It is getting
towards the hottest part of the day now
and so Peter, Tristan and Jeremais take
advantage of the refreshing waters and
take a quick swim before continuing our
voyage on the Rio Curicuriari to a beautiful
waterfall, the location of which is also
the start point of the on foot expedition
on day two.
The waterfall provides
another excellent bathing opportunity,
although one has to be wary of the strong
currents of the river to avoid being swept
away. After this relaxation, Aldair leads
us on a brief discovery tour in the jungle
(giving our clients an taster before beginning
outright on day two). On our return, Jeremias
and Alberto have prepared a picnic of
tuna, bread and a type of hot local spicy
sausage (like chorizo) cooked on a fire,
all washed down by ice cold Coca-Cola
from the ice box.
After lunch we get
back on the canoe and a short trip (10
minutes) back upstream leads us to our
destination for day one. We arrive at
1500h.at another small village of the
tukano Indian tribe called São
Jorge, where we receive a warm welcome
from the chief (here called capitão)
and villagers alike. An association called
Acibrn organizes this community, together
with three others of the lower Rio Negro
basin. The association has the purpose
of maintaining traditions, values and
customs combined with promoting awareness
of the civil rights to which all Indians
are entitled. As in the old days, before
they were "civilised" by catholic
missionaries in the late 18th
century, they still use hand made tools
in their everyday lives, e.g. Manioc grinders
and shakers. Manioc and fish in a great
variety of forms provides the vast majority
of the diet of the tukano people, although
they also plant bananas to trade for beans
and medical supplies. The traditional
buildings here are made from sticks and
clay with wild açaí palm
leaf thatched roofs, held together with
cipó vines. They look very strong
and in all, the place looks neat, very
organised and well structured.
We are shown to the
community hut where we participate in
an enlightening church service (the main
religion here is Catholicism) that coincides
with our first rains before stringing
our hammocks in the same building. Not
long after this experience we are called
for supper that has been prepared by the
guides on a fire and includes steak skewers,
rice, and pasta dishes, all tastes and
dietary requirements are catered for on
Southern Cross tours (including vegetarian
dishes for Corinne, our vegetarian client).
Not long after dinner we all retire to
our hammocks for our first night in the
bush, and for our clients, their first
night sleeping in a hammock.
Day
two- The first trail
Another early start
(0600h) as we are awoken by the village
priest banging on a tin, calling the villagers
to morning prayers and their breakfast
of porridge made from manioc. The Southern
Cross party enjoys a nutritious breakfast
of muesli, toast and jam, coffee and English
tea for Tristan (nicknamed "The Jungle
Boy" by Peter and the guides, and
new addition to the Southern Cross team).
After breakfast we return to the canoe,
watching the villagers removing a tree
stump from deep in the sandy ground in
order to create space for a new school,
and we set off at 0845h for the waterfall
we visited on the previous day. En route
we deposit equipment (tents, roll mats
and the 70 litre ice box) and supplies
that we will not need at an abandoned
manioc plantation ready to collect after
our trail in the jungle. At the waterfall
the guides secure the boat on the riverside
and hide the engine and fuel drums in
thick bush to collect on our return. On
the completion of these essential tasks
we begin on our trail through the bush.
Within minutes we
begin to see evidence of wildlife. The
first sight we encounter is the swinging
trees high in the forest canopy, a tell-tale
sign of the presence of monkeys, but despite
our best efforts they were already gone
before we could catch a glimpse of them,
as if toying with the wishes of the clients
to see them! However, our spirits are
not dampened too much and our patience
is rewarded as we continue on the trail
when see a forest chicken (Inhambú)
fly off a branch for five metres before
disappearing in the thick cover of the
forest floor. A whole group of wild pigs
took off with lots of noise when we approached
them unexpectedly. Also on the trail we
see (and feel!) leaf-cutting soldier ants
in there thousands carrying away the forest
with regimented order, as well as the
nest of the flying ants (Saiuva, that
grow to three centimetres long). Peter
tells us the story of how they use these
biting insects as a test of bravery for
boys in the tribes - they put the Saiuva
in analgesic jelly in a glove and the
youngster then puts the glove on his hand.
As the anaesthetic wears off the ants
bite the boy and the elders watch his
face for signs showing pain (perceived
as weakness), and depending on how much
pain he shows, he is accepted (or not)
into adulthood and a valued member of
the tribe.
We are walking through
pristine Terra Firme forest (one of three
basic types of the Amazonian rainforest),
which remains unflooded throughout the
year and therefore allows easy access.
The two other main types: the Igapó
forests, which are permanently flooded
and allow only canoe access where you
navigate on a level with the tree canopy.
The other type of forest, the Várzea
forest, grows in the region of white water
Rivers, which is partly and seasonally
flooded (between May and the end of September).
It is the Terre Firma forest where you
find the largest trees and we see huge
trees up to 60 metres tall and needing
at least 10 people to span the circumference
while holding hands!
After two hours trail
- taking time to admire the dense forest
all round us, wading through leaves, mud,
stepping over huge roots, and safely negotiating
river crossings we arrive at some rapids
(Igarapé) on the fast flowing stream
called Arabu (which flows all the way
from Bela Adormecida to feed the Rio Curicuriari).
The rapids provide an excellent bathing
opportunity for all except the guides,
who, reading the darks skies, hastily
set about restructuring an existing shelter
in order to accommodate everybody comfortably.
In the middle of the construction process,
the heavens opened with torrential rain
and a cover was hurriedly put over the
shelter in order to protect the equipment
and food we had with us. As the rains
subside, the hammocks are strung whilst
the guides begin preparing a fire to cook
the dinner (chicken, rice, bean stew,
sausage). A second heavy rainfall prevents
any afternoon discoveries for the clients
and so Peter fixes an exotic Batida with
schnapps and fruit juice whilst he and
Tristan build another fire at the other
end of the camp to generate some smoke
to keep the mosquitoes at bay (at the
same time making the team's eyes water!).
Darkness descends on the jungle by 1900h
hand the clients retire to hammocks after
dinner around 2000h, whilst Peter and
Tristan keep the fire going, at the same
time enjoying the luxury of a nice cup
of Yorkshire tea, brought along all the
way from England by Tristan!
Day
three - Back on the trail
Awake at 0600 hrs
with yet more rainfall, making our guides
jump out of their hammocks to find cover
under our shelter! We set off on the trail
at 0845hrs after the usual delicious jungle
breakfast, beginning with a river crossing
over the igarapé. Once more the
trail reveals numerous flora and fauna,
all of which seem to have a purpose. Aldair
imparts much of his indigenous knowledge,
which has taken thousands of years to
accumulate, to the party (excellently
translated by Peter to ensure everyone
gains this benefit). For example, we come
across a fallen Açaí Brava
palm - the roots of which are mixed with
water and used to treat malaria. We also
come across the buds of orchids not yet
in flower (yet still beautiful) and numerous
fruits and nuts lying on the forest floor.
After a three-hour
hike through dense forest we arrive at
the base of Bela Adormecida (literally
means 'Sleeping Beauty', the name given
due to its unusual horizontal feminine
shape!). Here we come across the Arabu
River once more, providing delightful
pools for bathing surrounded by huge boulders
covered in rich green liche and mosses.
Peter and the clients take advantage of
this fairytale setting (Peter even finds
a flake of gold in one of the pools),
whilst Tristan helps the guides build
another shelter, collecting Cipó
(tough, string-like vines that are used
to bind the struts of the construction
together). In the afternoon the clients
set off with Alberto on a jungle discovery
walk that provides them with excellent
photographic opportunities of the varied
flora and fauna of the Northern Amazon
region. Peter and Tristan remain at the
base camp, where Peter briefs Tristan
in preparation for tomorrow's ascent on
Sleeping Beauty, as he will be remaining
at base camp.
The camp looks great,
very professional indeed - there is even
a mug tree! The guides have put covers
over their hammocks after last night's
rains and everything is very ordered ready
for the return of our clients. Peter and
Tristan have constructed an excellent
fire (to rival that of the guides!) by
which we attempt to smoke our clothes
dry!
As darkness descends
on the jungle at 1830h the cacophony of
noise is ever present. The call of the
Inhambú is most prevalent however
we hear other calls as well, for example
armies of frogs and Toucans (Toucana).
The guides strategically place candles
around the camp as dinner time approaches
and the whole place gives off an eerie
sense of seclusion, the perfect place
for quiet contemplation away from the
stresses and strains of hectic western
lives. Everyone enjoys a large dinner
of steaks, stews and pasta dishes, then
an early night ready for the climb on
day four.
Day
four - Conquering 'Sleeping Beauty'
Reveille at 0600h
after the coolest night we have experienced
so far (relatively), all the party had
put on their lightweight fleeces during
the night to stave off the chill of the
night air. After a quick breakfast Tristan,
Alberto, Jeremias and the clients begin
their ascent at 0715h. The uphill battle
is unrelenting with very few flat areas
however, we make excellent progress -
Alberto all the while marking our route
with his machete on trees to ensure a
safe descent with minimal forest disturbance.
After two hours of steep uphill we arrive
at a small canyon where we take a break
and collect fresh, cool water from a spring
coming out of the mountainside. After
ten minutes we begin our ascent again,
scrambling over moss covered boulders
(some of which were bigger than Tristan
standing at 175cm!). As we gain altitude
the wind begins to pick up and the clouds
descend around us as we continue to climb.
We soon reach a near vertical 13m section
with no tree roots or Cipó to use
as grabs, and so we have to rope up to
ascend further. As we reach the top of
this section we catch a glimpse of our
target, unfortunately the group lacks
the necessary climbing expertise to ascend
the rock face with orchids springing from
it - as if from nowhere - so we wind our
way around it as we continue still higher.
Once more we reach another near vertical
section (more difficult than the last
both in terms of gradient and length -
20m) as the summit is within our grasp.
At this difficult obstacle we marvel as
Alberto (in his 50s) scrambles up a decaying
rope (that looks as if it has been there
for over 30 years) in order to throw down
a new line. Tristan ascends the rope first
and establishes its stability before Jeremias
harnesses the clients in and they are
aided up the section. Once everyone has
safely negotiated the rope we continue
the final 30m of thick bush, as if no
one has been here for 20 years - to the
summit of Bela Adormecida. (Arrive 1115h.)
The views from the
top are breathtaking, with the Amazonian
rainforest stretched out like blanket
below us. At 1125 m above sea level (900
m climb from base camp) we can see many
of the places we have visited so far including
São Gabriel da Cachoeira, the port
of Camanaus, the Rio Negro and the Curicuriari
as well as the São Jorge community.
Tristan even strives to see the waterfall
where we moored the canoe, but from this
vast distance it is wishful thinking!
We stay on the summit for one hour, enjoying
the beautiful vistas that provide spectacular
photo opportunities and a delightful lunch
spot among the delicate crystal white
orchids and the singing birds, not to
mention our first sight of the sun since
entering the jungle!
After lunch Tristan
erects a jungle flag (a stick and a leaf)
to mark the party's conquering presence,
before beginning our descent at 1215h.
The descent is much tougher on the knees
than ascending and that makeshift abseiling
is definitely for the more strong hearted
and adventurous people. We safely negotiate
the obstacles in our way (e.g. the vertical
sections, hornets nests and snakes - Cobra
Cipó) before arriving at camp at
1515h where we are greeted by Peter and
Aldair who have been busying themselves
preparing sardine salads and making drying
racks for clothes (Peter has also been
keeping the fire alive). Here we take
the opportunity to relax in the bathing
pools before returning to camp to enjoy
Peter's delicious meal; after which the
clients hit their hammocks to rest up
after a full day of exertion. The 'Sleeping
Beauty' of the Amazon is (in my opinion)
one of the best daylong ascents/descents
to be found anywhere in the world and
is a must see for non-technical and more
advanced mountaineers alike.
Day
five - In search of precious aquamarine
Awake at 0600h to
find the fire still going! After a leisurely
morning, taking breakfast at 0745h, we
set off without packs with Alberto and
Jeremias for an abandoned blue aquamarine
mine. On the way we see (once more) flora
and fauna that usually one only reads
about including grape-like vines on the
forest floor, the giant Brazil nut trees
(Sp. Bertholletia exelsa) and the famous
rubber trees (Sp. Hevea brasiliensis).
The history of the rubber tree in Brazil
is rich and is worth mentioning here.
The Omagua Indians
discovered the properties of rubber in
the 18th
century. However, it was Charles Goodyear's
1844 discovery of vulcanisation and the
development of the pneumatic tyre in 1888
that caused a commercial explosion. The
price of rubber soared and, in 1897, rubber
tapers (Seringueiros) in Brazil produced
21.000 metric tonnes of 'black gold' and
sold 88 per cent of all exported rubber
in the world, thus creating an extravagant
monopoly and turning the port city of
Manaus into one of the richest cities
in the world by the turn of the 20th
century thanks to the 'Rubber Barons'.
The story however is not all sweetness
and light as English botanist Henry Wickham
(1876) loaded 70 000 Hevea brasiliensis
seeds onto a steamer and smuggled them
out of Brazil (under the pretence that
they were rare plant samples for Queen
Victoria) and planted them in British
controlled plantations in Malaysia where
they were flourishing by 1912. This allowed
Brazilian prices to be undercut just before
World War One, and within a decade Manaus
was once more a jungle backwater city.
The American industrialist Henry Ford
(inventor of mass production) attempted
to compete with the British by setting
up his own Amazon plantations (at Fordlandia
and Belterra and can still be seen 500
miles from Belém on the Amazon
river) to produce his tyres for the Model-T,
however, these were unsuccessful. The
development of synthetic rubbers in the
1940s and 50s put an end to almost all
rubber production worldwide.
Anyway, back on the
trail to the aquamarine mine, and we also
catch sight of a wild pig running amidst
towering rock formations containing far-reaching
caves that would make ideal Jaguar hides.
Although we do not actually see one of
these magnificent beasts we see chilling
evidence of their presence where they
have been sharpening their claws on nearby
trees.
As we continue we
pass the site where the miners (Garimpeiros)
used to stay in the forest. Some of their
shelters are still standing although the
forest has long since regenerated after
the departure of Garimpeiros in 1994 when
the military shut the mine down. We are
deep in the jungle here, cut off from
real civilisation and it is difficult
to imagine how they managed to get all
the heavy equipment and supplies necessary
for long mining operations here in the
first place. Our guide Alberto also relays
to us the story of a Gaucho from the south
that was mining here who took 20 kg of
precious blue aquamarine to Manaus to
sell, promising to return with essential
supplies and equipment, but was never
seen again! This left his fellow Garimpeiros
in terrible strife and they were forced
to leave. However, like everywhere in
the Amazon one finds precious stones and
minerals, others followed and the place
was operational until 1994.
Five minutes walk
further on and we reach the mine itself.
It is now a site of shimmering pools,
full of frogs and spawn, and glistening
perfect quartz beaches. We stay a while
and contemplate what once went here in
terms of mans continued insistency to
exploit and dominate 'Mother Nature'.
These sobering thoughts give everyone
something to ponder as we return to base
camp (carefully avoiding the chameleon
bull frogs as they jump from leaf to leaf,
changing colour immediately as they land
on different coloured surroundings!) arriving
at 1230h.
To our horror, our
camp has been invaded by mosquitoes (it
appears they have hunted us down!) and
it is quite unpleasant. As a result we
take a quick lunch and then the decision
is made to take the trail back to the
igarapé on the Arabu River. Retracing
our steps of two days ago, the journey
takes only two hours and 15 minutes -
perhaps spurred on by the knowledge that
(as always on these tours) a perfectly
refreshing bathing opportunity awaits
us. On arrival there is little to do (as
the shelter is already erected), except
relax in the idyllic surroundings and
sooth our bodies and minds after an excellent
days walking in the bush. As usual the
guides prepare a filling evening meal
(I called it 'Jungle Bolognaise') which
is enjoyed by all before Aldair and Jeremias
undertake a spot of night fishing with
machetes and torches to add some extra
protein to the diet!
Day
six - A day of rest
After yesterday's
early departure from base camp Bela Adormecida
the day presents itself as an opportune
rest day and a good length of time to
undertake some clothes washing as there
is sufficient time to dry things over
yet another roaring fire built and maintained
by Tristan and Peter - everything begins
to smell a little smoky but at least it
is clean! Peter and Tristan remain at
the camp all day - revelling in the peace
and tranquillity which provides a great
surrounding to discuss the finer points
of future Southern Cross Tours operations,
interspersed with occasional dips into
the rapids to reduce the effects of the
humidity.
A lunch of bean stew,
pasta and rice (as well as grilled fish
from last nights haul) fills a little
hole, despite last night's excellent 'Jungle
Bolognaise' and a large breakfast, sets
the clients up well for their discovery
tour with Alberto. Providing them with
yet more opportunities to spot and snap
the varied plant and animal life on offer.
They return after just over an hour, with
Alberto carrying some Saracura roots from
which he concocts a health drink that
he says cleanses all the organs in the
body. This is a quite a lengthy process
which begins with scraping the shavings
of roots into a pan, he then adds water
and whisks it vigorously with a split
root until it foams. After this he scrapes
off the foam before repeating the method
another four times and then drinking the
mixture which has a bitter taste, but
improves the more you drink! Yet another
excellent evening meal of steak, sausage,
fish, pasta and rice fuels our now rested
limbs ready for returning to the trail
on day seven. A refreshing cup of tea
sets us up for the night and everyone
has retired to their hammocks by 2130h.
Day
seven - Returning to the canoe
It has not rained
for three days now, which seems unusual
bearing in mind we are deep in the rainforest,
but one shouldn't complain as it means
that no-one has to suffer the strains
of wearing wet kit! The group awake around
0700hrs for breakfast (crackers and jam,
tea and coffee as well as muesli and chocolate
milk) before setting off, retracing our
steps back to the waterfall and the canoe,
at 0830hrs. We reach the canoe (yes, it
is still there - as is the fuel and the
engine!) at 1030hrs. We refresh ourselves
in the soothing waters whilst Jeremias
and Alberto go in search of tropical fruits
to consume on the one hour 30 minute boat
ride back to Sitio Jeremias. This site
was once an American plantation with a
school and more amenities than we find
there today, but it was left to Jeremias'
father who could not maintain it (a combination
of Cachaça and lack of funds!),
and so we find it as Jeremias inherited
it. We string our hammocks in the manioc
grinding hut before Tristan, Aldair and
Alberto take the boat to Camanaus to pick
up some beer (Cerveja) and booze made
from sugarcane juice (Cachaça)
to enjoy as the hard part of the expedition
is over and we can relax somewhat! On
our return, Jeremias has prepared a large
feast of pasta, tuna in tomato sauce as
well as bean stew with potatoes and rice.
After lunch, and a
couple of well-earned beers, Tristan and
the guides undertake a spot of fishing.
No rods here, just a line and a hook baited
with worms dug up from the Sitio after
lunch using a hoe-like tool provided by
Jeremias. The Indian guides have a real
knack for this skill, however I manage
a haul of only one fish in two hours -
but I guess its all a matter of practice!
We fish of the gently sloping granite
beach into the Rio Negro - the same spot
from which Tristan writes his day's notes
that form the basis of this report.
This is one of the
most picturesque places we have visited
on the whole expedition, especially as
the inky blackness of night descends;
the setting sun silhouetting the cumulo-stratus
clouds against the dense jungle on the
far side of the Rio Negro (at least 1.5
km away), as the river laps gently around
my feet. The appearance of the Southern
Cross, shining a brilliant bright white
adds to the mystery and magic of the scene,
as day drifts seamlessly into night.
On return from fishing
we place the fish on spikes and cook them
gently over the fire whilst enjoying cold
beers, fresh fruit juices made from the
fruits we find growing all around the
Sitio, and cachaça. The clients
are already asleep and so there is no
need to cook dinner (especially after
the large lunch) and instead Peter, Tristan
and the guides talk about experiences
past and present of the jungle in the
haunting glow of candlelight, soothed
by the now reassuring jungle soundtrack.
Alberto seems to have a never-ending stock
of tales, each one as fascinating and
enlightening as the last. It is not long
before Aldair and Jeremias feel the need
to catch more fish and so they disappear
into the darkness with hand made harpoons
to see what the river yields. Everyone
else now retires to their hammocks to
get a good nights rest.
Day eight - The
last leg
Reveille at 0630h,
Tristan gets the fire going ready for
the hot water for tea and coffee, as well
as a treat of baked beans and bacon that
he brought from England and everyone enjoys
breakfast at 0800h. Aldair then sets about
preparing the fish caught in last nights
fishing, these are large (trout sized)
fish called Tucunaré - a very beautiful
fish, delicately patterned with large
yellow circles along both sides - as the
clients go off for their last discoveries
in the jungle with Alberto and Jeremias.
On their return, we
take lunch of the grilled Tucunaré
(absolutely delicious) with cold rice
salad and bean stew, before breaking camp
and loading up the canoe ready for the
return journey to São Gabriel da
Cachoeira. We depart at 1330h, the outboard
propelling us against the current of the
Rio Negro. On the voyage we catch a rare
glimpse of the pink dolphin as Alberto
uses all his skill and knowledge of the
river to safely negotiate the many rapids
and rocky outcrops that form natural barriers
to progress. Tobias and Corinne, however,
do not seem phased by the dangers that
the river presents as they gaze in awe
at the spectacular views of Bela Adormecida
so pleased that they got to the summit.
We arrive at São
Gabriel by 1600h and check into the Hotel
Waupés once more before heading
off to the Indian crafts shop, where the
clients purchase a map and a hand made
pot as souvenirs of their Amazon adventure.
Besides, beautifully handcrafted cipó
baskets in all colours and sizes, small
boxes made from coconuts and local woods,
delicately carved and patterned, where
among the many wares on display; and they
were cheap, too! We head back to the hotel
for a much needed shower and to pack up
the kit, before meeting the guides for
a last beer or two and then heading off
for a delicious last supper with the clients
at the best restaurant in town. When we
re fully replete we head back to the hotel
by 2300h and hit the sack in one of the
most comfortable beds ever - compared
to a hammock under the stars!
Day nine - The return
flight
Breakfast at the hotel
after a 0630hrs start before catching
the Rico bus to the airport ready to board
our flight back to Manaus at 0950h. The
flight itself is an adventure with spectacular
views of the Rio Negro and the seemingly
endless forest, not to mention the unforeseen
stops and the appalling flying conditions
in the 40-year-old plane. However, despite
landing at Manaus airport 20 minutes before
our connecting flights we manage to get
on the plane and still have time to say
our goodbyes (largely thanks to Peter's
mastery of the language to get us fast-tracked
through check in) to Tobias and Corinne,
before going our separate ways, Peter
and Tristan to Rio HQ and the clients
to Switzerland.
Concluding
Thoughts
In all, this tour
in the Northern Amazon region was a roaring
success. The flexibility of the itinerary
enabling greater enjoyment for all concerned.
The guides were friendly, knowledgeable
and very helpful. The food was first rate
throughout the trip and the clients seemed
to have experienced the holiday of a lifetime
and I believe we fulfilled their ambitions
for the trip, as when they set out their
aim was simply to "be in the jungle"!
Our tour accommodated this wish and gave
them more besides. All in all, this Southern
Cross expedition delivers Five Stars for
excitement - as do all the others, check
them out!!!!
Hope to see you in the near future on
one of our tours,
All the best,
Tristan Wolfe
esq. (Southern Cross Tours UK)
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